Tag Archives: ladakh


August, 21st, 2006

It is fascinating to see in what different conditions human activity can develop. There are no signs of places where people can meet around here. All the social life, that in Europe was going on in public already 4000 years ago, is finding place somewhere else.
It took 3 hours walk from Hemis to here, climbing a pass at 3700 meters.
There is a big, steep, black mountains that closes the valley as if it was a wall. Pouring tons of dust into the village. The village developed itself along the river, so it’s even more rarefied than usual.

Themisgang, India, 2006

Tingmongang, India, 2006

Yang Tang, Hemis

August, 19th, 2006

I’m too tired to write

August, 20th, 2006

I’m too tired to write.

I remember that it took 8 hours of walk from Leh to Yang  Tang and then 5 hours more from Yang Tang to Hemis. Most of the time I was gasping for more air, since my body didn’t get fully accustomed to the altitude yet. Iron red mountains. Sometimes a small oasis with a river. Then dusty iron red mountains again against a deep blue sky. Sometimes an animals’ carcass to improve my spirit.

The guide was continuously offering me to bring my backpack, but I was too proud to accept.

On the first day I saw only one other person. On the second I had the impression that the whole valley was full of Israeli without maps, waters, trekking shoes, guides or anything. Well, it looks like they survived the Himalaya.

Leh – 2

Leh, India, 2006

Leh, India, 2006


When I visited Ladakh, altitude sickness took an awful toll on me. I spent the first days sitting in the hotel’s terrace and avoiding almost any unnecessary movement.

August, 16th, 2006

The night was a real nightmare. Nausea, I couldn’t breath properly. My blanket was heavy as a one ton boulder on my stomach. I tried to puke, but nothing came out. I went a bit outside, looked at the flowers under the bluish light of my LED lamp. Not even some fresh air helped. I took two aspirins and that helped me to fall asleep. My awakening has been like waking up from a coma, a long apnea in which I found shelter not to rest but to consume less oxygen.

It looks like most of other tourists in the hotel ignore my presence and snub my greetings. Probably the presence of other tourists disturbs their idea of the “small Tibet”, where they could have found the truth about life?

Fucking mountain, I miss Delhi’s chaos.

When I thought it was over, one day early in the morning, I went out with my camera and took some pictures of the morning activities. The streets of Leh get invaded by dust and every morning Nepali immigrants are sweeping the streets.

Unluckily, I moved a little bit too much. Later that day, it came in a sudden: I couldn’t move anymore. I had to stop for an hour or two before I found the energy to get back at the hotel. It was a reasonable price to pay for this photograph.

Leh, India ©2006

Leh, India ©2006