Monthly Archives: October 2010

Delhi, 05.12.2008

Because of the Mumbai attacks, the authorities installed metal detectors at the entrance of the bazaar in Pahar Ganj, like it would be possible to control the continuous flow of people . A policeman, from time to time, tells someone to go through it. I don’t understand which criterion he uses to select the people to check. A truck full of gas tanks drives through without any control, a guy with a huge backpack walks by, another person only in t-shirt and jeans is forced to go through; the metal detector beeps, but the policeman doesn’t care.

CNN India shows a report about shots at the Delhi airport, and then the cover of a mag, with written on it “IS WAR THE ONLY OPTION?”

Delhi, India, 2008

Delhi, India, 2008

The word that people here love at most is “famous”: “My family isn’t rich and famous”, or “is your camera of a famous brand?” or “is your cell phone famous?” People, the rising middle class, are searching for some kind of confirmation of their actions and choices in some kind of external and impartial reference: fame.

At 8:00 PM I discover that the train to Jodhpur isn’t departing from New Delhi Train Station but from another one stuck in the middle of Old Delhi. A Taxi asks 350Rs to take me there, a guy passing by says “that’s bullshit, man!” So a rickshaw brings me there for 80Rs. Just in time after a crazy rush in the alleys of the old town.

Delhi-Jodhpur

Delhi-Jodhpur

Delhi, 04.12.2008

On December 2008, I started a six months trip: two months in India and four South America. Almost two years later, I’m still coping with the amount of pictures I shot during that time, all the notes I took and the drawings I did in my notebooks. Someday I’ll probably be able to make a sense of all of it, in the meanwhile I thought that I could start publishing text and photos over here.

It’s nice to look back at the experiences, and see how memories, photos and travel notes integrate in a complementary way. This is the start, I got notes, photos and drawings for every day of the trip, but I won’t make a post a day, so there will be stuff to read and see for the next year or more.

Delhi, India, 2007

Delhi, India, 2007

I arrive in Delhi early in the morning, from the airplane it’s possible to see the fog that covers the plains around the city. There’s a strange sign at the customs, that goes something like “Pleasure for quality, pleasure for compliance”, the typical language of Indian bureaucracy.

The road from the airport to Pahar Ganj is packed with cars, the sun barely pierces the layer of dust. I didn’t remember that Delhi was so dusty, probably because I always came during the monsoon. I took a windowless room at the Metropolis hotel, to avoid hearing too much noise from the road. I slept the whole day.

“Tourist India” is a completely different place than the one that is lived by the locals, not only from an economical standpoint, there’s something in the mentality: there are no gurus or saints in Delhi, but bureaucrats and shop keepers sitting behind dusty desks, who yawn while talking on the phone or playing solitaire on their PC. The same people, minutes later, light some incense sticks in their shops and start praying: utterly fascinating.

New Delhi Train Station – 4

New Delhi Train Station, India, 2007

New Delhi Train Station, India, 2007